It is about time Karl Lagerfeld lifts us to the world above after drowning us in the sea at his Spring 2012 ready-to-wear collection for Chanel. He translates the beauty of space upon our head into a dazzling garment for Chanel Spring 2012 haute couture collection. Did he get inspired while glancing outside the window of his private jet or while he was watching Pan Am? No one knows. Either way, Lagerfeld is definitely in the mood for flying. The runway, which was transformed into an aircraft cabin, was filled with sheath dresses made by light tweed — some were plain and some were exquisitely embellished. The color palette hints colors of the sky. It varies from a day sky to midnight sky blue. Lagerfeld picks the 60s as a reference for an updated version of a Chanel classic tweed jacket and coat: wide neckline, puffy and three-quarter-length sleeves. It is not something new from Karl Lagerfeld, but wherever he tags us along, he brings Chanel’s spirit with him.
John Galliano’s shoes are hard to fill indeed. With two couture seasons in a row, there has not been a designer out there appointed to rule the house. Raf Simons or Marc Jacobs could be the one, but as far as Bernard Arnault is concerned, he is not ready to commit with a new designer. On the other hand, Bill Gayten is still wearing the helm in Christian Dior and his second couture show might stop Arnault from outsourcing the new creative director for the legendary house. Gayten pays homage to the founder of the house, Christian Dior, by adopting his infamous ‘New Look’ silhouette: tiny-waist, wide skirt, and hourglass shape. The idea of attaching X-ray print on the waist-hugging garments is keen and smart, as Gayten wants to unveil what the house has to offer. Additionally, the final ball gowns raise the question, “Would one of these dresses, or two, end up on Academy Awards’ red carpet?” After all, Cameron Diaz was pointing to some of the gowns from the front row.
Besides Gayten, Giambattista Valli is also on his second season in the couture show. And once again, he casts magic. A white cocoon cape with floral attached initiates the show, which immediately gives a serene feeling. The silhouette, the texture and the draping in the garment depict a chic French woman: elegant and daring, but romantic. The accessories — metal rose necklace, metal belt, and floral headdress — not only complement the garment but also elevate its shape to a maximum effect. This collection reveals Valli’s client. She is not only a woman who has exquisite taste, but also someone who has a captivating life and personality. His woman demands for attraction. Giambattista Valli may be new to haute couture, but he certainly understands the craft, and with his novel-glamour signature style he is definitely a couturier to watch.
To understand Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture show is never an easy task. His mind-twisting style always makes us wonder what he is up to, however that is what make his presentation one of the most intriguing fashion shows to watch. It is not surprising that Gaultier chooses Amy Winehouse as an inspiration for his latest collection. The man loves a scandal. And Winehouse’s behavior was full of it. If Amy Winehouse was a full-time housewife and lived in the 50s, this collection would be her costume exhibition. A ladylike silhouette with Winehouse’ exuberant hair and personal style — bright color, skin-baring garment, and a hint of old-school-rock — filled the runway. Fortunately, Gaultier’s signature is not missing in this collection — the corset-dress, sexy pantsuit, dramatic skirt — as it slays Amy Winehouse’s skanky personal style. Kinky-rock (in a good way) would be the best word to describe it.
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